Running the streets

This morning I turned out of my house, crossed the green nearby, ran downhill and under the motorway to the park.

I’ve been running for years – but on and off, always for fitness, never as a way of life. I can always quit – and do – but always come back to it.

I’ve run nearly everywhere I’ve lived: during the few weeks I spent in Edinburgh, as a postgraduate student in Norwich, a few times in America, in Paris, and now, once again, back in Dublin.

They say you never know a place unless you actually live there, but it’s also possible to live somewhere and not know it in the way that you do when you run it. Inclines that seem slight when you drive, cycle or walk are revealed to you when you’re dragging your legs up them, having already run several kilometres of hills.

This was especially clear to me in Paris: for months on end I had a fairly standard circuit that looped around from the rue Trousseau, up avenue Ledru-Rollin to place Léon Blum, then down the boulevard Voltaire. I thought of several things as I ran along that stretch: the fact that a young Picasso stayed in the hotel just before the turn to the gymnase Japy, a gym hall where the Parti Socialiste was formed in 1899 and where Parisian Jews were interned during the Second World War. As I passed the Charonne metro station I thought of the eight protestors who died there on 8th February 1962. These three locations were within a hundred metres of one another: all cities are palimpsests of historical memories, Paris more so.

In Edinburgh I ran, thinking of Thomas de Quincey dying in that city in a dusty room, in debt. The muscle-stretching hills of that city lend themselves to transcendental thoughts when running, as does the mountainous east of Paris: when I’m climbing a hill, I’ll think of anything to distract myself from the difficulty of my task. Sometimes I’ll fix on a phrase and repeat it to myself internally until the rhythm becomes a mantra, like Bloom picking apart advertising slogans. Often I’ll just count to a hundred repeatedly, matching the rhythm of my pace. But most frequently I’ll look around, taking in buildings and streets and hills and reminding myself what I know about them, and promising myself I’ll find out more.

On the last night before I left Paris to move back to Dublin, I went for a run up the Canal St Martin, past the site of the Gibet de Montfaucon – once an elaborate and horrific cubic construction from which men were hanged. I thought about how blood would run down the hill from the gibbet, and then wondered if I had confused it with the Mur des Fédéres, the wall in Pérè Lachaise cemetery at which the Communards were shot.

I ran past the space-age Communist headquarters, up the hill and cut to the right, up some steps and around a curving cobbled street which a Situationist dérive had once reached. I later learned that this hill, the butte Bergeyre, once had a stadium sited on top – the stade Bergeyre, which in 1920 hosted the French Cup final, in which CA Paris beat Le Havre 2-1. It also hosted some of the football games in the 1924 Olympics. The stadium had been knocked down in 1926; one day it was there, then it was gone.

olympique stade bergeyre

When I ran down that cobbled street on the butte Bergeyre, I didn’t know about the old sports stadium that was long demolished – I was there because it had become a place I was drawn to because the Situationists had been drawn there long before me.

Cities exist whether we want them to or not, whether we’re there or not. Yet Paris is still with me, even when I’m running along the pavements and through the parks of a south Dublin suburb. We come and go.

Will Self’s radiator: how do writers keep warm?

Perhaps I’m alone in this, but when I read about a writer’s office, or see a picture of the room in which they undertake the majority of their work, I wonder how they heat it. Only occasionally in photos can you glimpse a white painted radiator attached to the wall (in Will Self’s study in his Brixton home, for example – or Beckett’s Parisian study). Sometimes it’s obvious that the room is designed to heat itself to some degree (George Bernard Shaw’s rotating writing hut, which allowed him to follow the sun). Otherwise you’re forced to assume that, somewhere in the writer’s room, the process of heating is taking place, but that the writer thinks it’s none of our business how it’s done.

radiator

You may think my obsession with writers’ heat sources a little peculiar, but to me it’s quite a practical preoccupation. For the last five months or so, I’ve been writing a non-fiction book about Dublin. Much of this time has been spent in a box room in the rented house I share with my girlfriend on a south Dublin housing estate. The room is smallish, but big enough to accommodate two desks (a large desk – mine; a smaller one – hers). As my girlfriend mostly works from an office in the city centre, I’m habitually the sole resident here, sitting in my cheap office chair, trying to hammer out a substantial word count on a daily basis. A lot of this writing has taken place during a quite icy winter.

On cold days, I had initially tried working without any heat source at all – but my hands would freeze up, mangling the words I typed on the keyboard. I had a choice: either find some heating or fall considerably behind with my writing. Because it seemed wasteful, not to mention costly, to heat the entire house, I thought I’d try and find a small plug-in heater.

When you’re interested in literature, you begin to wonder how certain writers would do certain things: you become obsessed with writers’ working methods and try to emulate their approaches in the hope that a little of what you irrationally assume is the magic of their compositional process will somehow elevate your own tawdry routines. Don DeLillo composes each new paragraph on a new page. Nabokov wrote on index cards. Hemingway wrote standing up. Perhaps I could do these things too? (Many of these examples are drawn from Brian Dillon’s excellent I Am Sitting in A Room, a wry commentary on the obsession with writers’ rooms.)

While in this frame of mind, I wondered what kind of heater a great contemporary novelist – like Philip Roth, say – would buy if he was in my position. And by ‘my position’, I mean: attempting to buy a reasonably priced plug-in heater that would keep a twelve foot-by-twelve foot room warm.

But I’m sad to say that the literature on this topic is sorely lacking. I combed the Paris Review – usually the go-to source for information about the minutiae of writers’ habits – and discovered nothing.

Eventually, though, I found the dearth of literary commentary on the question of office heating somehow liberating. With no anxiety of influence to overcome, I unselfconsciously chose a decent heater and have been writing fairly steadily ever since.

Ask an Archaeologist: Dublin’s Underground Rivers

Last year I wandered around Dublin’s Liberties area with Franc Myles, an archaeologist who has carried out numerous digs in the locality. My article based on our journey, which traced the manmade branches of the River Poddle, has just been published in the Dublin Review.

When Franc Myles wanted to trace the course of a river through Dublin’s Liberties, he had to go underground. He and a fellow archaeologist, Steve McGlade, had been excavating a site at the north-west corner of the junction of Ardee Street and Cork Street, below which the stream ran. “We said ‘fuck it’, you know? ‘We’re archaeologists, we can’t just let it run under the building and not investigate it’, so we did.” They climbed into the culvert that channelled the stream below Ardee Street and walked east, in the direction of St Patrick’s Cathedral.

It’s very difficult to refer to the Poddle as a single river. It feeds a knotty network of diversions below Dublin’s Liberties, and has gone by many different names over the years.

The Poddle has also been known as the Pottle, the Puddle, the Salach and, further upstream near Tallaght, the Tymon. The Commons Water, being a wholly separate river until it joins the Poddle at the end of the Coombe, is an innocent bystander in all of this. Yet its course, which crosses the artificial diversions of the Poddle, ensures it is often mistaken for the better-known river. When walking along the courses of the rivers, I frequently had to remind myself which one I was standing above, and which one I was about to intersect.

As well as telling me about his underground adventures, Franc showed me how to read the urban fabric of the city, so that you could look at a street, compare its form to a historical map, and tell what had once stood there.

Franc pointing out a street

Franc is an engaging guide to the Liberties area, and cuts a memorable figure:

Franc is six foot five in height and forty-seven years old, with greying hair gelled straight up in spikes. He was wearing a bright yellow high-visibility vest with the word ‘Archaeologist’ printed on it in black letters and a pair of streamlined Ray-Ban sunglasses; he wore both the vest and sunglasses throughout our walk, and pushed a bike alongside him.

At one point, Franc stopped to point out a wall:

See the wall in behind? That is a fucking amazing wall. It’s one of the few we’ve actually found a reference for – off the top of my head it’s either 1682 or 1692. We found a reference to its construction in one of the Brabazon leases. And it was basically constructed to separate land known as the Artillery Field – which was one of these places that during the disturbances in the 1640s they used as an artillery park – and the brewery of William Cheney. Now William Cheney, it turns out, is an ancestor of the former American Vice-President, Dick Cheney. So we wrote to him and said, “Any chance of getting a few quid for a publication?” We didn’t receive a response.

The Cheney wall, photographed through a building

Read more in the Autumn issue of the Dublin Review.

Hey Manchester… Red Star Football Club

I’ve gone along to a number of Red Star 93 home games this season. Here’s my season review for French Football Weekly:

What I was watching from the freezing terraces of Saint-Ouen that day in February was a team that had adjusted to promotion and seemed about to ride the season out comfortably.

Then, Martigues equalised – an unmarked header, crossed from the left.

There was a sharp intake of breath from the crowd, then vehement and sustained cursing. Then silence. The man in a duffel coat who had been playing a single note on a recorder for nearly an hour and a half, stopped.

More on Red Star here.

Keep it non-fictional: The Mammoth journal

Last week Joe Kennedy and I launched a call for proposals for our new digital venture, The Mammoth:

We welcome your proposals for blog-length pieces (600-1000 words) and longer non-fiction essays (2000 words and over). In particular we like well-researched narrative journalism, but will nevertheless consider any non-fiction on its own merits.

You can find the full call for submissions here.

I’ve also written a blogpost for Irish Publishing News about The Mammoth:

Instead of the internet reducing your attention span, we think it provides an opportunity to publish lengthier, more in-depth work – in short, what we are saying is: go long. [...]

There are a couple of ways of looking at it – one would be to call what we’re seeking ‘long-form journalism’. And there’s a certain truth in that description: a lot of the work in narrative non-fiction may not be immediately visible on the page – the intensity of the research process can be comparable to the legwork of the reporter or the academic researcher. However, I suppose where it differs from both those processes is that what one produces must be compelling in a way similar to a short story or novel. But there’s no single formula, and we’re very interested to see what proposals are sent to us. If you send a brief query email suggesting a topic you want to focus on, we’ll write back with a response and – if we like the idea – ask for a longer proposal.

More from The Mammoth soon.

Free ebook – ‘Open space: walking the boundaries of Tallaght’

‘A brilliant little ramble through time and place’ – Steve Himmer, author of The Bee-Loud Glade

I’ve combined two essays I’ve written into one ebook: ‘Open space: walking the boundaries of Tallaght’ (shortlisted for the Some Blind Alleys essay grant 2012) and ‘The house that wasn’t there: Dave Allen’s ghost stories’.

The ebook is available to download for free from this site.

Both essays deal with an area of landscape around the Killinarden and Kiltipper areas of Tallaght. The first is an autobiographical ramble around Tallaght, attempting to trace the visible and invisible boundaries of the locality. The second discusses the comedian Dave Allen and the influence of storyteller Malachi Horan on his work.

If you have any feedback about the quality of the ebook files (especially the mobi file), please get back to me – I’m keen to hear responses, as this is my first attempt at putting together a digital book.

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TO DOWNLOAD:

Available in two formats (click format to download):

epub (compatible with most non-Kindle ereaders)

mobi (compatible with Kindle ereaders)

Some Blind Alleys essay grant: public vote

My essay, ‘Open space: walking the boundaries of Tallaght’, has been shortlisted for the Some Blind Alleys essay grant. An online readers’ vote has just opened. You can vote here.

There are seven judges and one public vote. The public vote is weighted as one judge’s vote. The judges are Kevin Barry, Carlo Gébler, Claire Kilroy, Molly McCloskey, Belinda McKeon, Philip O Ceallaigh, Keith Ridgway.

My journey took me along what I believed to be, more or less, the borders of Tallaght. These I hastily sketched on a sheet of A4 just before I left the house. They included trajectories along what were, broadly speaking, straight lines following the boundaries of Kiltipper Road to the south and Tymon Lane – the ancient roadway that runs parallel to the M50 between Greenhills Road and the elaborate motorway interchange at Balrothery – to the east. But the other boundaries were less defined, more permeable and unstable, and, ultimately, my route reflected that. I wandered along the roads that crisscross the Jobstown area, wondering how you can define the edge of the city in an urban sprawl that seems so haphazard. The problem is that you often can’t, and you have to rely on maps to tell where the boundaries once lay.

Read the essay on the Some Blind Alleys website here.

Download it in PDF here.

Dave Allen’s Ghost Stories

By Karl Whitney.

I scrabbled about blindly in the undergrowth in the park in south Dublin. The fact was: Dave Allen’s house just wasn’t to be found. The old building where the comedian grew up had once stood on a site close to the swathes of knotted, twisted foliage I was currently fighting off – but the house had been knocked down in 1986. The morning was cool and bright, yet it felt like darkest night due to the canopy of vegetation hanging above me. Having the vaguest sense of being followed, and feeling slightly spooked, I ducked through an old stone doorway. It led into yet more jungle, so I struck instead towards the football pitches that adjoin the Firhouse Road, and into the light of day.

Dave Allen had been born David Tynan O’Mahony on 6 July 1936. He had lived near where I was standing, in Cherryfield House, on the stretch of land that’s now a public park running along the river Dodder. This had been where, on cold winter nights, the comedian’s father assembled his family to tell them stories of the macabre and the supernatural. Later, during his television programmes, Allen would insist that the studio lights be lowered as he told a ghostly tale; these moments recalled the sense of anticipation and fear experienced when his father began to tell stories by the fireside.

Cherryfield House (from South Dublin Libraries collection)

Allen once wrote that his father had ‘a natural flair for the narrative. Sometimes in the evenings he gathered my brothers and me around the hearth to tell us a story before we went to bed. They were frequently true, and often associated with Irish history, but there was always a special air of apprehension and excitement when he related one of his suspense stories, of which he had an endless collection.’

His father, Gerard John Cullen Tynan O’Mahony – known more simply as ‘Cullie’ – was the general manager of the Irish Times. Brian O’Nolan, Austin Clarke – who lived a little further down the Dodder, at Templeogue – and many other literary figures numbered amongst the guests at Cherryfield, not least when Cullie celebrated his birthday each New Year. ‘My father was born on New Year’s Day in 1900,’ Dave Allen explained. ‘He was the first baby born in Ireland in the new century. And, consequently, there was a fairly good shindig every New Year’s Eve.’

In 1974, Allen collected a series of ghost stories by authors such as Bram Stoker and M.R. James under the title A Little Night Reading. In the introduction, he credited another storytelling influence, ‘an old man with white hair and a flowing beard, who lived in the village and whom I believed to be a hundred years old.’ He calls this man ‘Old Malachi Horn’ – although his name is more usually rendered as Malachi Horan. In his account, Allen says that, as a child, he spent days listening to Horan’s storytelling: ‘I used to play truant from school just to go for a ride in his pony and trap, and listen to legends of wild banshees and headless coachmen.’

Allen’s estimate of Horan’s age is surprisingly accurate: the storyteller died in 1946, aged 98. Rather than living in a village, however, Horan lived in a thatched cottage at the top of Killinarden Hill near Tallaght, which is where Dr George A. Little found him in the early 1940s: sitting at the fireside telling grisly tales of botched hangings, violent local rivalries, and ghostly occurrences in the hills. Dr Little sketched Horan for the reader: ‘A square face of great power, eyes grey-green beneath a penthouse of bushy white brows; lips so firm set as to be almost immobile […] woolly-white hair and side-whiskers – a face set to the world, or to a purpose’.

In one of many chilling tales recorded by Dr Little in his book Malachi Horan Remembers, the storyteller recalls ‘the most fearsome thing’ he had ever met. The way Horan told it, he had been walking home, having successfully sold a young horse for a good price in Naas. After stopping for a few celebratory drinks, he continued down the Saggart Road in the direction of his house. As he walked, the wind howled and the moon became obscured by cloud, leaving him in darkness. Suddenly, he was struck – by a man’s shoulder, he thought. Having cheerily wished the other man a good night, the collision happened again, and continued to recur. He broke out in a cold sweat, for he now knew ‘it was no living man’.

Unnerved, and stemming his rising panic, Horan decided not to head for home, making his way instead in the direction of a friend’s house. As his friend let him through the door, Horan turned to see that ‘a fully dressed man stood behind me, but – he had no head; just a raw stump of a neck!’ Scared stiff, they agreed that ‘what was outside was the man killed by the steam-tram’, and said a prayer for his soul. (The Dublin and Blessington Steam Tramway ran along a nearby road, and it fatally felled so many casualties that its route was often referred to as ‘the longest graveyard in Ireland’.)

Although in later life Dave Allen confessed that he had never had an unearthly experience, a fascination with the grisly and the ghostly persisted in his comedy. Graves and graveyards were frequently exploited for comic purposes, such as in the sketch where two funeral cortèges race to be first into a graveyard, or the story he tells of a night spent in the house of a gravedigger – who had died of fright – during which the comedian felt a cold, heavy presence (it was his own hand, and, at least in this telling, his shocked reaction accounted for his missing left index finger – he bit it).

Allen also wrote that ‘as a young teenager walking home in the twilight through the local graveyard, I became conscious of a noise that continually followed just behind me, which only stopped when I turned round to see what it might be.  ‘The hackles rose on my neck, and I was in a cold sweat. My fear only receded when I reached the comparative light of the local village to discover a twig attached to my trouser leg!’

Where am I and what am I doing? Writing about Parisian geography

At the bibliothèque Couronnes, a Perec mural

My essay on Georges Perec, the Situationists and Parisian geography appears in the third issue of the White Review, published this week.

I stood near the columbarium at Père Lachaise cemetery. I was there to see the locker-like vault containing the ashes of Georges Perec, kept alongside those of his aunt, Esther Bienenfeld. To the right of the plaque bearing their names and dates someone had affixed a wildflower to the wall with a Tom and Jerry sticking plaster. The columbarium contains thousands of urns stacked in a two-storey grid along one wall of the arcade. Its cloister-like arches surround the domed crematorium and its looming chimneys.

The grid became an obsession for Perec – his Lieux project and his novel la Vie mode d’emploi were planned using 12 by 12 and 10 by 10 grids respectively. Rather than being a limiting structure that undermined a creative impulse, the grid was seen as a constraint that would aid composition (in line with the literary group Oulipo’s view of the literary uses of limitation).

Perec’s Lieux project focused on 12 places in Paris, one of which was rue Vilin, the street where he had lived as a child.

Rue Vilin is in the neighbourhood of Belleville, in north-eastern Paris, and stands on hills overlooking the city centre. Perec’s Jewish family lived in an area described by his biographer David Bellos as ‘a whole Yiddish town within sight of the Eiffel Tower.’ While this street had an obvious emotional resonance for the writer, Perec sought to record his experience there as ‘simply, flatly’ as he could. A series of descriptive texts of each place made up one half of his project – the other half consisting of his memories of the same places. Perec’s descriptions of the rue Vilin capture a place that’s about to be erased: long designated a slum area, it has been marked for extensive redevelopment and reconstruction. It is far from a stable repository for Perec’s past.

Read more of the essay at the White Review. Or order a copy of issue three to read the whole article.

(Illustrator Badaude has contributed a poster to the same issue of The White Review that looks at Perec’s Tentative d’ épuisement d’un lieu Parisien; read her illustrated post about it here – I particularly like the tracing of pigeon trajectories around the place Saint Sulpice, something Perec does in his text. )

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