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Archive for the ‘vaguely spooky travelogues’ Category

Dave Allen’s Ghost Stories

31 Oct

By Karl Whitney.

I scrabbled about blindly in the undergrowth in the park in south Dublin. The fact was: Dave Allen’s house just wasn’t to be found. The old building where the comedian grew up had once stood on a site close to the swathes of knotted, twisted foliage I was currently fighting off – but the house had been knocked down in 1986. The morning was cool and bright, yet it felt like darkest night due to the canopy of vegetation hanging above me. Having the vaguest sense of being followed, and feeling slightly spooked, I ducked through an old stone doorway. It led into yet more jungle, so I struck instead towards the football pitches that adjoin the Firhouse Road, and into the light of day.

Dave Allen had been born David Tynan O’Mahony on 6 July 1936. He had lived near where I was standing, in Cherryfield House, on the stretch of land that’s now a public park running along the river Dodder. This had been where, on cold winter nights, the comedian’s father assembled his family to tell them stories of the macabre and the supernatural. Later, during his television programmes, Allen would insist that the studio lights be lowered as he told a ghostly tale; these moments recalled the sense of anticipation and fear experienced when his father began to tell stories by the fireside.

Cherryfield House (from South Dublin Libraries collection)

Allen once wrote that his father had ‘a natural flair for the narrative. Sometimes in the evenings he gathered my brothers and me around the hearth to tell us a story before we went to bed. They were frequently true, and often associated with Irish history, but there was always a special air of apprehension and excitement when he related one of his suspense stories, of which he had an endless collection.’

His father, Gerard John Cullen Tynan O’Mahony – known more simply as ‘Cullie’ – was the general manager of the Irish Times. Brian O’Nolan, Austin Clarke – who lived a little further down the Dodder, at Templeogue – and many other literary figures numbered amongst the guests at Cherryfield, not least when Cullie celebrated his birthday each New Year. ‘My father was born on New Year’s Day in 1900,’ Dave Allen explained. ‘He was the first baby born in Ireland in the new century. And, consequently, there was a fairly good shindig every New Year’s Eve.’

In 1974, Allen collected a series of ghost stories by authors such as Bram Stoker and M.R. James under the title A Little Night Reading. In the introduction, he credited another storytelling influence, ‘an old man with white hair and a flowing beard, who lived in the village and whom I believed to be a hundred years old.’ He calls this man ‘Old Malachi Horn’ – although his name is more usually rendered as Malachi Horan. In his account, Allen says that, as a child, he spent days listening to Horan’s storytelling: ‘I used to play truant from school just to go for a ride in his pony and trap, and listen to legends of wild banshees and headless coachmen.’

Allen’s estimate of Horan’s age is surprisingly accurate: the storyteller died in 1946, aged 98. Rather than living in a village, however, Horan lived in a thatched cottage at the top of Killinarden Hill near Tallaght, which is where Dr George A. Little found him in the early 1940s: sitting at the fireside telling grisly tales of botched hangings, violent local rivalries, and ghostly occurrences in the hills. Dr Little sketched Horan for the reader: ‘A square face of great power, eyes grey-green beneath a penthouse of bushy white brows; lips so firm set as to be almost immobile […] woolly-white hair and side-whiskers – a face set to the world, or to a purpose’.

In one of many chilling tales recorded by Dr Little in his book Malachi Horan Remembers, the storyteller recalls ‘the most fearsome thing’ he had ever met. The way Horan told it, he had been walking home, having successfully sold a young horse for a good price in Naas. After stopping for a few celebratory drinks, he continued down the Saggart Road in the direction of his house. As he walked, the wind howled and the moon became obscured by cloud, leaving him in darkness. Suddenly, he was struck – by a man’s shoulder, he thought. Having cheerily wished the other man a good night, the collision happened again, and continued to recur. He broke out in a cold sweat, for he now knew ‘it was no living man’.

Unnerved, and stemming his rising panic, Horan decided not to head for home, making his way instead in the direction of a friend’s house. As his friend let him through the door, Horan turned to see that ‘a fully dressed man stood behind me, but – he had no head; just a raw stump of a neck!’ Scared stiff, they agreed that ‘what was outside was the man killed by the steam-tram’, and said a prayer for his soul. (The Dublin and Blessington Steam Tramway ran along a nearby road, and it fatally felled so many casualties that its route was often referred to as ‘the longest graveyard in Ireland’.)

Although in later life Dave Allen confessed that he had never had an unearthly experience, a fascination with the grisly and the ghostly persisted in his comedy. Graves and graveyards were frequently exploited for comic purposes, such as in the sketch where two funeral cortèges race to be first into a graveyard, or the story he tells of a night spent in the house of a gravedigger – who had died of fright – during which the comedian felt a cold, heavy presence (it was his own hand, and, at least in this telling, his shocked reaction accounted for his missing left index finger – he bit it).

Allen also wrote that ‘as a young teenager walking home in the twilight through the local graveyard, I became conscious of a noise that continually followed just behind me, which only stopped when I turned round to see what it might be.  ‘The hackles rose on my neck, and I was in a cold sweat. My fear only receded when I reached the comparative light of the local village to discover a twig attached to my trouser leg!’

 

Where am I and what am I doing? Writing about Parisian geography

14 Oct

At the bibliothèque Couronnes, a Perec mural

My essay on Georges Perec, the Situationists and Parisian geography appears in the third issue of the White Review, published this week.

I stood near the columbarium at Père Lachaise cemetery. I was there to see the locker-like vault containing the ashes of Georges Perec, kept alongside those of his aunt, Esther Bienenfeld. To the right of the plaque bearing their names and dates someone had affixed a wildflower to the wall with a Tom and Jerry sticking plaster. The columbarium contains thousands of urns stacked in a two-storey grid along one wall of the arcade. Its cloister-like arches surround the domed crematorium and its looming chimneys.

The grid became an obsession for Perec – his Lieux project and his novel la Vie mode d’emploi were planned using 12 by 12 and 10 by 10 grids respectively. Rather than being a limiting structure that undermined a creative impulse, the grid was seen as a constraint that would aid composition (in line with the literary group Oulipo’s view of the literary uses of limitation).

Perec’s Lieux project focused on 12 places in Paris, one of which was rue Vilin, the street where he had lived as a child.

Rue Vilin is in the neighbourhood of Belleville, in north-eastern Paris, and stands on hills overlooking the city centre. Perec’s Jewish family lived in an area described by his biographer David Bellos as ‘a whole Yiddish town within sight of the Eiffel Tower.’ While this street had an obvious emotional resonance for the writer, Perec sought to record his experience there as ‘simply, flatly’ as he could. A series of descriptive texts of each place made up one half of his project – the other half consisting of his memories of the same places. Perec’s descriptions of the rue Vilin capture a place that’s about to be erased: long designated a slum area, it has been marked for extensive redevelopment and reconstruction. It is far from a stable repository for Perec’s past.

Read more of the essay at the White Review. Or order a copy of issue three to read the whole article.

(Illustrator Badaude has contributed a poster to the same issue of The White Review that looks at Perec’s Tentative d’ épuisement d’un lieu Parisien; read her illustrated post about it here – I particularly like the tracing of pigeon trajectories around the place Saint Sulpice, something Perec does in his text. )

 

Open space: walking the boundaries of Tallaght

21 Jun

My essay about a walk I undertook around Tallaght last November is online at Some Blind Alleys.

This is how it begins:

‘On a frosty morning at the end of last November, I set out from my parents’ house to walk around the edges of Tallaght: it was the day the government was due to announce cuts ahead of yet another emergency budget, but I wasn’t much in the mood to pay attention to the news. The idea was to try to stitch together my memories of the places I knew with less familiar areas. I also wanted to see if this far-flung zone was still traversable by foot – seeing it by car would not suffice, and anyway I can’t drive.’

Continue Reading here.

 

Talking about cities

19 Jun

This Wednesday 22nd June at 8pm, I’ll be talking about ‘City and Narrative’ in Shebeen Chic, South Great George’s Street, Dublin, as part of the Dublintellectual series of events run by Dr Marisa Ronan. It looks like I’ll be first on, so I’d say it’ll be properly kicking off at 8pm sharpish.

I’ll be discussing perceptions of the city, especially of Dublin. I’ll also discuss the walk I undertook around Tallaght back in November, about which I’ve written an essay (to be published soon).

Other speakers at the event: Andrew Hetherington, Co-Founder of Fund It, and Pat Cooke, from the School of Art History and Cultural Policy, UCD.

To round it all off, there’ll be a roundtable session about funding and the future of the arts in Ireland.

 

Rue Monge: A guide to getting lost

29 Sep

Walking around the neighbourhood entails finding routes that aren’t immediately obvious to you when you arrive. Finding short-cuts and taking the long way around become activities you can pursue at leisure. Turn left along rue Linné, up the hill towards the Roman arena, hidden away behind the buildings on Rue Monge, then left again into Square Capitan; having wandered aimlessly in the park, realising that it connects with the arena, you walk down the hill, turning right alongside the university, then up rue des Écoles, pausing to look at the upcoming films in the Grand Action cinema. Transcribing the date and time of one of the films (François Truffaut’s La Nuit américaine (Day for Night) at 20h on October 5th), you swerve left up the hill, then onto Rue Monge, taking a side street back towards the mosque on rue des Quatrefages, then back towards your point of origin, a square quiet at night, but now, near lunchtime, teeming with university students, mingling with wandering children of secondary school age.

Georges Perec lived at the apartment building at 13 rue Linné. When I passed it, I photographed the building from across the street, then crossed and took a picture of the courtyard, a bicycle visible inside the gate, leaning against a wall.

The urge to wander has struck me in every city I’ve visited, even those towns in the American west that lack event the most basic amenities for pedestrians (e.g., footpaths). While walking these towns and cities I’m motivated by two impulses: the impulse to get lost, to find new streets and corners of the city; and the impulse to map new territory, to utilise the newly discovered places of the city to aid future navigation. The getting lost is play: it is loose and undefined, and allows you to make mistakes and then correct them, without the pressure of having to conform to the framework of a map, an adherence to which may restrict your wandering.

Nevertheless, my journey this morning was also informed by a sketchy knowledge of the geography of the area: rue Monge runs along a steep hill, sloping down towards the Seine. In walking uphill, you are invariably heading south. Although, just to mix things up a little, this is not always the case: small hills derail you from any over-determined geography of the area, injecting a sense of play into proceedings once you realise you’ve left your map of Paris on the kitchen table.

 

Wandering around Pigeon House

13 Sep

The other week, on a bright, slightly chilly autumn afternoon, I cycled down to the Pigeon House to take a look around this strange outgrowth of land that’s located right in the geographical centre of Dublin. The chimneys of its now defunct electricity generating station are visible from almost everywhere in Dublin, yet I know very little about the area, and I don’t think I’ve ever travelled the full length of the peninsula, which continues past the generating station, reaching a granite sea wall that leads all the way out to the Poolbeg lighthouse.

When you get to the Pigeon House Road, a road that seems to lead nowhere, you see a bank of containers in a commercial shipping yard to your left, and a tall barrier shielding the site to your right. Behind this barrier is the bulldozed site of the Irish Glass Bottle Factory, one of the most controversial property purchases made during Ireland’s boom. Intended as a mixed-use, high-rise mini Manhattan, it’s now little more than a muddy field churned up by heavy machinery.

I went straight ahead at the end of the road, which I learned is not the way to go: it leads to a dead end, where railings and gates block your path towards the grassy wastelands that border the south side of the peninsula.

I returned the way I had come, then turned right, past the entrance to the container yard, where juggernauts were queuing up to deposit their loads. Cycling along this road, you’re immediately assailed by the smell of sewage, which has been processed and expelled on this site for about a century. As you can imagine, the stench is pretty disgusting. Nevertheless, I stopped to take a photo of the canal of effluent that emerges from under the road, then runs parallel to it before joining the Liffey just before it reaches the generating station. Opposite me at this point was the site of the Poolbeg waste incinerator, another oddly-located site of controversy on this peculiar outcrop.

Canal of stench

Poolbeg incinerator site

Straight ahead, the looming towers of the Pigeon House, and in front of them a large redbrick building dating from 1902: the first electricity generating station in Dublin. James Joyce mentions it in Ulysses (set in 1904):

‘the flags of the Ballast office and Custom House were dipped in salute as were also those of the electrical power station at the Pigeonhouse, and the Poolbeg light.’

Generating station (1902 station in foreground)

A large granite building next to the generating station was built as a hotel in the late 18th century, then converted into barracks soon after the 1798 rebellion, when British troops were stationed there. Essentially this tip of the peninsula remained military property for around a hundred years, after which it was sold to the corporation and used for electricity generation, feeding the substation in Fleet Street in central Dublin.

Cycling past the gates to the Pigeon House, you come across an incongruous line of cannon, which obviously reference the site’s military history. Taking a sharp right turn down a narrow roadway, you emerge at a wide stretch of sand dune, providing a view of the south county and the Dublin mountains.

Continuing on along the road, you pass the generating station, then reach the sea wall, a mile-long construction that was built in the eighteenth century as a means of clearing the mouth of the Liffey of the sand and silt that had made it such a danger to shipping. At the end of the wall, the Poolbeg lighthouse was built (it became operational in 1767).

As I walked along the rough granite of the sea wall, I watched the activity in the surprisingly busy shipping lane, as passenger ferries and container traffic came and went. I thought of how, when in the centre of the city, you never thought about Dublin as a port – you carried on oblivious to the continual traffic just a couple of miles down the river.

The Pigeon House area is an intriguing place, full of surprises and traces of Dublin’s industrial and civic past. It also smells, really badly.

 

I’m in the Market for Decline

16 Aug

When I think of the markets in Dublin, I think of overcast Saturday afternoons spent circling the deserted streets around the market buildings, camera in hand, recording the intricate stonework decorating the corners of the sheds. On walks such as this, I’d have made my way from Dawson Street, around the area surrounding St Patrick’s Cathedral, up Francis Street in the Liberties, down the hill from St Audeon’s Church, onto Church Street on the Northside, near the Four Courts. The streets at the back of the Four Courts, where the Luas runs along, have their own particular ambience: the terraced houses that adjoin Church Street provide a dense, atmospheric, network similar to the houses around Blackpitts on the South of the city.

Often, when walking near the markets buildings, I would stop and think about what they were like in their heyday, when surely they were busier than they are now: were the narrow corridors between fruit and vegetable stands constantly thronged by customers coming and going? Were the streets outside full to bursting with carts and carriages?

A lot of nineteeth century architecture in the central city forces me to think this way: what was it like back when it really mattered? Of course, this might just be a nostalgic projection provided by my own wishing that Dublin must have been relevant at some point in the past. The former Irish Parliament building on College Green, now the Bank of Ireland, was an illusory centre of Irish political life in the nineteenth century – the real power being vested in the Westminster parliament in London. It was an empty centre: Ireland was then a peripheral part of the British Empire, and now stands on the edge of Europe, both geographically and in terms of its political relevance to the wider European Union.

But what can you make of the psychological effect of this emptiness at the core, instituted perhaps by the shadow-puppetry of colonial assuagement, but nonetheless preserved meticulously, unthinkingly, right up to the present day? One aspect: an enduring scepticism about the real worth of institutions combined with a compulsive habit of tipping one’s hat to power, in the absence of anything else to do with one’s hat. Governmental, media [insert the name of the state broadcaster and major national newspaper you are currently thinking of here]: any institution gets it in the neck verbally, but no one knows what to do in order to occasion any tangible change. The net result: no change of any substance. This is the kind of impotence that makes Dublin, and Ireland in general, a circle of hell for anyone inclined to interrogate it in this way. Better to keep your head in the sand. Better, indeed, to get on with the business of living: commute expensively, accumulate, keep your taxes low and your house prices high; pave; re-tile; repeat ad nauseam.

 

The City’s Edge: Dublin in Fragments 3

13 Jul

Living in the centre of the city is both heaven and hell. Preferring the latter, I attempted to investigate the infernal underground workings of the area, drawn to the gloomy inky-dark streets of the south inner city. I lived just off a road called Blackpitts – its name a reference to the filthy puddles left by the River Poddle when its flow abated during the summer months. The street is built directly over the course of the river. I often wondered whether ‘Filthy Puddle’ wouldn’t be a better translation of Dubh Linn, one which would undoubtedly lend the city’s name a subversive undertow. Blackpitts is tucked to the west of Clanbrassil Street, down a short incline that hints at the presence of the river: the slopes on either side of Blackpitts are the valley, and the street itself is a substitute for the subterranean river that runs below.

Blackpitts is the gateway to a dense warren of streets packed with terraced houses and small factories, under all of which a complex network of man-made rivers runs. The houses date from different points over the last hundred or so years: the redbrick terraces grouped around Hammond and St John’s streets (this area was where I lived for a few years) are from the last years of the nineteenth century, and are the product of the Dublin Artisan Dwelling Company, who also built the terraces in Stoneybatter. Just behind the redbricks off Blackpitts is the area known as the Tenters, named after the ‘tents’ of flax fibres stretched out to dry on frames across the fields in the days when weavers were based in the locality. Houses were built here in the 1920s.

But it wasn’t just the history of the area around Blackpitts that interested me. Desirable as a place to live because of its proximity to the city centre, it was targeted in a serious way for redevelopment. It was an area that was far from settled: on a daily basis you could trace the changes as your footsteps drew you towards long-deserted warehouses, past fenced-off tracts of waste ground from which an old building had recently been cleared.

While the boom years made Dublin a site of constant flux in terms of property development, nowhere was the tension between construction and destruction more obvious to me than in the area where I lived. One day, as I walked down the street, a row of redbrick houses were being knocked down, brick-by-brick. I had previously thought the houses to be occupied – there were bicycles chained to the railings outside, and they otherwise showed no more signs of neglect than did my own residence. Half-knocked now, the lower floors of their front facade stood, sawn off just at the sill of the upstairs window, a spooky reminder of what was yet to be erased completely. The clinical precision with which the operation was being carried out made the top of the wall seem as sharp as a razor’s edge, when glimpsed in silhouette against the dull afternoon sky.

At the end of Blackpitts is Newmarket Square, an immense windswept plateau bordered by anonymous redbrick warehouses used by multinationals for document storage, and, at the western end, a cluttered and uncomfortable looking apartment development. A shuttered pub, Grey’s of Newmarket, stands at the north centre, on a corner where a road opens onto the new Cork Street extension. This pub was the scene of a gangland killing in 2004, and is one of a number of pubs that have been shut down in the Liberties area.

At number 48 Newmarket Square was a rooming house where Lily O’Neill, a young woman known as Honor Bright, lived; she was murdered in 1925, her body found on a quiet mountain road to the south of the city. Working as a prostitute, Lily made her way from her lodgings on the night of her murder along New Row, past St Patrick’s Cathedral towards Bishop Street, and onwards towards St Stephen’s Green. That walk was less than a mile, but it bridged two sharply contrasting worlds.

One of the streets she walked down, New Row, had also been built over the Poddle river – an early version of the streetname was New Row-on-Poddle. The point where the street meets the western end of the Coombe also marks the confluence of two different branches of the river, where the network of streams rejoins the Poddle proper. This is where George Sala, on an assignment in 1853 for Charles Dickens’s Household Words magazine, had found ‘semi-continental picturesqueness’ amongst the dirt and poverty of the Coombe’s inhabitants.

Tracking the different branches of the Poddle could occupy someone for weeks. For a while I became obsessed with tracking it, believing that an unlovely, unloved and largely hidden river was more valuable than those more celebrated watercourses: the Seine, the Thames, even the Liffey. I believed that its very insignificance held the key to its significance. That it was banished from sight as a result of its unholy stench made it even more intriguing. Yet it also emerged above ground briefly in the oddest places.

One day, I went a few steps from my house, and tried to find an exposed stretch of the river that appeared on maps of the area. In the grounds of Warrenmount Convent, I asked a groundskeeper about the river, and he brought me to the point where it had appeared on the map. A forbidding stone wall of at least ten feet in height, marking the extent of the convent’s grounds, stopped me in my tracks. There was no sign of the river within the boundary of the convent.

However, when I stopped and listened, I could hear the unmistakeable burbling of water, and I decided that it must be coming from the other side of the wall.

On the other side of the wall was a yard, used as a car-park by an Irish telephone company. As I walked onto the property, a guard emerged from his office, and told me I couldn’t continue my trespassing. I explained my reasons for being there, and eventually he relented, and pointed me towards the far corner of the car-park, where the gravel surface broke into scrubby waste-ground, and where there stood a couple of trees, which must have been 100 or so years old.

There, flowing freely along the other side of the convent wall, I found the Poddle – or, at least, one of its branches – and after a couple of minutes spent admiring it, I walked away satisfied, and the river disappeared from view once again.

 

The City’s Edge: Dublin in Fragments 2

09 Jul

It’s hard to believe how important Tallaght was to the historical development of Dublin city – at least it was hard to believe something like that when I grew up there. Nowhere seemed further from the dense, decaying streets of the city centre in the 1980s than Tallaght, with its vast and oppressive open spaces threaded with sinister-looking electricity pylons that you could hear a low buzz from when you stood beneath them. Tallaght, with its anonymous industrial estates seemingly dropped in the centre of housing developments – estates that, in turn, seemed to stretch for miles without end. Tallaght seemed like nowhere.

Tallaght never seemed part of Dublin, to me. It was distantly flung to the far south-western corner of the city, as if banished from the urban centre for some obscure crime. It was divided from Walkinstown by a large tract of farmland that subsequently, much later, became a park and a motorway. The road from Tallaght to the city – at least the one I was most familiar with – was the Greenhills Road, which runs along a high embankment between Kilnamanagh, where my family lived, and the roundabout at Walkinstown. As you travel north along the road, factories and warehouses stretch out below you to the left, as far as the eye can see. In the distance you can just about see the white papal cross in the Phoenix Park, but, at least from that perspective, that’s the nearest visible green space.

On our bus trips to the city – usually me, my brother and mother, on a 77 bus whose upstairs windows tasted of tobacco smoke when, one rainy day, I wiped my hand on the fogged glass, then licked it – you’d be introduced to the oddly fractured urban planning at work in the city, before reaching the snug terraced streets of the Liberties, the bus taking a sharp hairpin turn at the end of Cork Street before catapulting around the corner down the Coombe, past the disembodied doorway to the old hospital, preserved like an old limb in formaldehyde. Across from St Patrick’s Cathedral, a Dublin Corporation rubbish tip, where street cleaners dumped the refuse they collected along the city’s streets. The inner city intrigued me: it seemed everything Tallaght wasn’t.

Only later did I find out that Tallaght was flung there on purpose. Or at least part of it was. The extensive council estates located to the west of the village were, in part, the city’s response to a long-overdue need for proper social housing to allay the slum conditions in the inner city. Other building followed, as empty landscapes filled up with housing built by private developers on acres of rezoned land.

In the mid-60s, a master plan had proposed the development of a number of new towns in the west of the city, of which Tallaght was one. This expansion formed the western suburbs as they now stand, kept outside the city proper by the boundary of the M50 motorway, which serves as a link between suburbs, and to the roads out of the city.

When the M50 was being built, I still lived in Tallaght, and, before they had laid the road surface, I used to ride my BMX along the flattened earth of the motorway, as far, nearly, as the current interchange in the shadow of the quarry at Firhouse. At that point, there was an urban legend that a local gangster had buried a bag full of money from a robbery somewhere under the road. I cycled along, thinking about it: if you were to start digging, where would you begin? The roadworks were vast, and, by comparison, a bag full of stolen money seemed so small, no matter how much of it there was.

When they had put up a wall along the edge of the motorway, I was still drawn there – the strangeness of this incursion into everyday life had not yet abated. A small stream ran from the estate in Kilnamanagh under the M50. I was intrigued by the way a new concrete riverbed had been constructed to divert the river below the road, and I often pottered around there in the sunlight, watching the water trickle away into the darkness of a moulded cement tunnel. It was surrounded by a grubby scrubland pockmarked with spiky bushes and broken concrete blocks – the detritus of road-building. Discarded, presumably used, condoms could be seen here and there. The stream disappeared under the motorway, and I still don’t know where it emerges.

I went to school at the top of the Greenhills Road, near Tallaght village. Across the field – an open space, really, bordered on one side by an industrial estate, on the other by the Bancroft housing estate – was a small river that smelled like chemicals, but had a rich and intriguing history. The River Poddle had been Dublin’s first municipal water source, and ran from an unspecified source beyond the Belgard Road. It was spliced with a canal that drew water from the River Dodder further downstream, and supplied water to the city for many years. It had become notoriously polluted due to its path through teeming slum areas with virtually no sewage facilities, and had also been used for waste drainage by the tanneries in the Liberties, and, wisely perhaps, it had ceased to be used as a source of drinking water.

When you were out in the field, and you were a primary school child sweating in your uniform on a summer day, you smelled the river before you saw it. It ran down behind the cigarette factory that stood on the other side of the Greenhills Road, before running under the road and through a ditch that directed it eastwards towards Templeogue. The sweet smell of tobacco being rolled into cigarettes wafted across to the school most days – usually in the summer months when the windows were opened in an effort to cool the classrooms.

My abiding memories of Tallaght focus on how separate it seemed from the rest of Dublin. This was partially because of limited public transport, but it was also undeniably physically separate. It still is, to a large degree, thrown off to the edge of Dublin by some powerful centrifugal force.

 

The City’s Edge: Dublin in Fragments 1

08 Jul

Viewed on a map’s surface, as the city embraces the Irish Sea and lazily asses itself out towards Ireland’s midlands, Dublin appears curvy and welcoming, but, in person, it’s spiky and wants you to go fuck yourself. The Spire, a stainless steel needle that reached 400 feet into the air on O’Connell Street, is often nicknamed the Spike by those wishing it to stand humorously as a symbol of hard drug use in the inner city, but I prefer to think of it as a representation of the metallic, unyielding, non-stick attitude of Dublin and Dubliners in general. The city has an edge. As an additional point of comparison, it’s difficult to get a decent view of the Spire in the city centre. You can wander around the low-rise centre without ever seeing it at all; the same goes for Dublin. It’s simultaneously there and not there. For me, Dublin is still a great unknown, and I’ve lived here nearly all of my life.

This realisation led me to set myself tasks: would I be able to describe Dublin – not neighbourhood-by-neighbourhood, and not necessarily through its history – in a way that reflected what I think I already know about it, while also acknowledging that there are things about a city that constantly change, that you know only briefly before they’re spirited away, and there are things that you may never know.

Dublin is a place I hate; Dublin is a place I love. Both feelings jostle around inside of me as I make my way around the city’s streets by foot, by bike, by bus. I’ve never committed to either love or to hate the city, but often I decide on a position, before changing my mind later. I never really thought I did love the city, but sometimes I find myself doing so, before stopping myself. Sometimes the late evening light catches a stubby Georgian street a certain way, and you’re transported briefly to a transcendental city, one where you haven’t just stepped in someone’s vomit.

Dublin, most of all, is a city of fragments. It’s been broken into pieces. These pieces are spread around the map, and often, no matter how hard you try, it’s impossible to connect them all. Sometimes it’s impossible to connect any. This is partly a product of bad planning, partly because our minds rebel against the overwhelming experience of city life, and all we have left are fragments of urban experience to hang on to.

And this is the way I want to approach Dublin: through fragmentary glances down its streets and alleys, through midnight rambles in its industrial estates and exploratory hikes amongst its suburbs. Dublin is knowable through its fragments, or it’s not knowable at all.

In a way, all cities are the ruins of past civilizations, and Dublin is no different in this. The city, especially at its threadbare fringes and its sharp edges, testifies the recent death of a dream that consisted of full employment and house ownership for all. Incomplete developments that loom over country roads and adjoin supermarket car-parks concretize the optimism once felt about an ever-expanding property market, an optimism undermined by economic collapse. These estates are at times melancholy places, at times sites of a pioneer optimism. They are undoubtedly part of Dublin, but are also isolated fragments cast to the North, South and West of the city, thrown there by cheap land, the greased wheels of planning and good transportation links.

Dublin: pointy, sharp, steely, desperate, broken into pieces. Coming to a town near you, or it would be if you weren’t already there.